Dust jackets
On a modern first edition the jacket often carries most of the value. An archival sleeve, never tape, never trimmed to fit. Price clipping reduces value, so leave it alone.
Caring for books
Nothing here needs equipment or expertise. It is the handful of things that decide whether a binding is still sound in fifty years.
Leather
Leather dressings are the most common way a good binding gets ruined by someone trying to help.
Conservation practice moved away from the old advice to feed leather years ago. Dressings darken a binding permanently, migrate into the paper and leave a tacky surface that holds dirt. Applied to a book that did not need it, the damage is not reversible.
If a binding looks dry or is shedding a fine powder, that is a question for a conservator, not a tin from a shop. It costs nothing to ask and a great deal to undo.
General guidance only. For anything valuable or already damaged, speak to an accredited conservator.
On a modern first edition the jacket often carries most of the value. An archival sleeve, never tape, never trimmed to fit. Price clipping reduces value, so leave it alone.
A soft brush along the top edge, away from the spine. No water, no wipes, no polish. Dust is abrasive, so once a year matters more than doing it thoroughly.
Never adhesive tape. It yellows, stains through the paper, and removing it costs more than the original repair would have. If a page is loose, keep it loose and keep it with the book.
Paper, or the ribbon it came with. Not a pen, a paperclip or a folded corner. Metal rusts into the page and leaves a brown shadow that will not lift.
A tight new binding wants easing open, not forcing. Support the boards, open a few leaves from each end, work towards the middle. A minute, and it prevents a cracked spine.
Small boxes, spine down or flat, filled but not packed tight. Never spine up: the text block sags away from the binding under its own weight.
Books survive neglect far better than they survive enthusiasm.